01.01.70

The world she described is a world partly vanished. Travel too has changed, along with the Tyrol and winter sports, which makes her book so charming. So what did she make of it all?

“On November 22nd,” she writes, “we left our London home at 7.30am, arriving at Kensington Air Station 10 minutes later. Allow, as we did, at least 10 minutes for the weighing of baggage – and the payment of excess baggage rates! Departing by bus at 8.40am we reached Northolt with time to spare for a hot drink at the bar, considerably irritated we may add – as were our fellow passengers – at the recently imposed 5/- per head bus fare and 5/- per head airport charge.”

Cradock flew to Munich, stopping en route to refuel at Düsseldorf, and squeezed in a “thoughtful hour with history at the Hofbräuhaus, scene of the beginning of Adolf Hitler’s first putsch”. She warns readers of the “extreme poverty” they will find in post-war Austria and Germany; the “infinite sadness, whatever your national loyalties, in the sight of so much ruin”; remarks on the sight of oxen pulling carts in snow-bound fields; the need for a transit visa in Germany; and the prevalence of cars with “US Rhine Army plates”.

Source: Telegraph.co.uk

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